Mishimoto Carbon Fiber Oil Catch Can
Part #: MMOCC-CF

HKS has released an SSQV3 blow off valve kit specifically for the 2009+ Lancer Ralliart. At the same time HKS released a redesigned stage 1 camshaft for the SR20DET (RPS13). These redesigned cams improve performance above 5,500rpms widening the power band all the way up to the rev limiter.

Product: SSQV3 Blow Off Valve
Application: 2009 Lancer Ralliart
Part #: 71007-AM016
MSRP: $420

Product: 256 Intake (11.5mm) Redesigned Camshaft
Application: Nissan Silvia (R)PS13
Part #: 22002-AN025
MSRP: $230

Product: 256 Exhaust (11.5mm) Redesigned Camshaft
Application: Nissan Silvia (R)PS13
Part #: 22002-AN024
MSRP: $230

Available November 16th, 2009

Cometic Gasket has taken their race proven MLS technology to the street! Street Pro gasket kits offer the same unparalleled Cometic sealing technology in an affordable complete package. If you are looking for a complete engine gasket kit ask for Cometic’s Street Pro gasket line for your next engine build. Street Pro gasket kits are offered as two separate part numbers: top end kits and conversion kits. To purchase a complete gasket kit, please order both the top end gasket kit and conversion gasket kit.

Street Pro Top End kits include:
• MLS head gasket
• Intake gaskets with manifold end seals
• Exhaust manifold gaskets
• EGR gaskets (as needed)
• Valve cover gaskets
• Distributor gaskets
• Carburetor gaskets
• Air cleaner gaskets
• Thermostat housing gasket
• Intake and exhaust valve stem seals
• Throttle body gaskets (as needed)

Street Pro conversion kits include:
• Oil pan set
• Timing cover gasket(s) and seal
• Rear main seal
• Water pump mounting gasket
• Fuel pump mounting gaskets (as needed)

ARP has just released a new Pro Series ARP2000 main stud kit for 2008 and later Mitsubishi 2..0L (4B11) Turbo and Non Turbo applications. Part No. 207-5403 includes a set of ten, M10 ARP2000 main studs, a set of ten, M8 ARP2000 main studs, twenty 8740 chrome moly steel 12 pt nuts and a 1/2 oz. pack of ARP Ultra-Torque fastener assembly lubricant. All Pro Series ARP2000 studs are centerless ground, heat treated prior to thread rolling and machining, and are nominally rated at 220,000 psi. These fasteners deliver a 50% increase in tensile strength over the OEM main bolts.

Product: Main Stud Kit
Application: Mitsubishi 2.0L (4B11) Turbo / Evolution X
Part #: 207-5403

ARP has just released a new Pro Series ARP2000 connecting rod bolt kit for BMW 2.8L (M52EURO), 3.0L (S50US) and 3.2L (S52US) inline 6 cylinder applications. Part No. 201-6201 includes a set of twelve ARP2000 Pro Series rod bolts that are rated at 220,000 psi and replace the BMW factory bolt part no#11241739728. The ARP2000 material has considerably better fatigue life and the bolts are reuseable as compared to the OEM Torque To Yield (TTY) rod bolts which must be replaced after each use. Optimum design, enhanced reliability and increased strength are the main attributes of ARP’s Pro Series connecting rod bolts.

Product: Rod Bolt Kit
Application: BMW 2.8L (M52EURO) 3.0L & 3.2L (S50/S52US)
Part #: 201-6201

Additional horsepower, high ambient temperatures, high altitude and aggressive driving can all contribute to elevated oil temperature. Lower oil temperature ensures better engine protection and longer engine life. Extensive racing and testing data shows that the COBB Secondary Oil Cooler is capable of reducing oil temperatures from extreme peaks of 130C/266F (OEM redline) to acceptable operating temperatures in the 110C/230F range.

This elegantly engineered kit sits opposite the OEM oil cooler in the unused driver side bumper duct. The design is optimized to work with the OEM oil cooler duct, which is included in this kit. Oil flow return from the OEM oil cooler is diverted to the COBB Secondary Oil Cooler for an additional oil cooling stage before being redirected back to the OEM oil return.

Execution of the COBB Secondary Oil Cooler kit leaves nothing to be desired. A Mocal air-to-oil core is used for efficiency and durability. The core is mounted to the chassis using a custom CAD designed aluminum bracket that is designed to work with the included OEM oil cooler duct. The adaptor fittings are custom CAD designed and CNC machined aluminum with black anodizing. All hose ends are high quality aluminum -10 AN fittings with an attractive black and titanium anodized finish. Hoses are preassembled using smooth bore, lightweight synthetic rubber interiors with black nylon overbraid and encased in XRP Fyrefoil 2 radiant heat shielding for additional thermal resistance. The replacement gaskets are Nissan OEM parts.

The Limited Edition COBB Secondary Oil Cooler for the Nissan GT-R R35 is the most comprehensive solution for managing engine oil temperature. Install a COBB Secondary Oil Cooler on your GT-R R35 and drive at the limit without distraction.

Application: 09+ Nissan GT-R
Part Number: 5C1700
MSRP: $1395

Originally created for the Crawford Performance Unlimited AWD Time Attack Subaru and Ken Block’s Gymkhana racecar, these pistons are now available to the public. The new pistons are 100% CNC machined from high quality 2618-T6 wrought aluminum bar stock and are specifically designed for high horsepower road and drag race engines. The pistons feature internal and external bracing, a unique donut dish crown and an application-specific under crown profile that properly redistributes heat and reduces stress concentrations experienced in high boost Subaru engines. Unlike forged pistons, the billet pistons are machined on every surface allowing for all unnecessary weight to be removed during manufacturing. The result of this new process is a weight reduction of up to 35 grams compared to other piston packages available! High quality 9310 steel wrist pins and JE Pro Seal Rings are included. For severe racing applications, upgraded Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coated wrist pins are available.

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The special design that eliminates the sharp internal angles where the main bore meets the fuel injector bores inherent with conventional extruded- and drilled-aluminum designs can only be achieved with such composite materials. Skunk2’s K-series Composite Fuel Rails are compatible with the factory fuel system and can support up to 1,200 hp, with gains as high as three percent realized during testing.

FEATURES

◦Up To 3% Gain
◦Supports Up To 1,200 HP
◦0.625” Internal Bore
◦-8 AN Inlet and Outlet
◦Compatible With Factory Fuel System
◦Chemical-Resistant To All Fuels, Including Alcohol
◦‘06+ Civic-Compatible Kit Available

TEIN Hood Dampers for the Mitsubishi Lancer EVO allow you to raise your hood without having to use the traditional hood stand. These are hydraulic style hood lifts.

Application: 03-06 Evo 8 & 9
Part #: BHD01-R52
MSRP: $220

Application: 08+ Evo 10
Part #: BHD01-E18
MSRP: $220

Available August 1st, 2009

Applications: Mitsubishi Evo-X 2008-up
P/N: 10220
MSRP: $2,200.00
Description:Surge Tank

Applications: Mitsubishi Evo-X 2008-up
Exhaust Tone Level: 90dB
P/N: 64072 Nur Spec-C-Ti
MSRP: $1,451.00
Arrival Date: End of June 2009
Description:Full cat-back exhaust system with 80mm Stainless Steel Piping and Titanium Tips.

Applications: Mitsubishi Evo-X 2008-up
Exhaust Tone Level: 90dB
P/N: 67639 Nur Spec-DT
MSRP: $1,910.00
Arrival Date: End of June 2009
Description:Full Dual Tube cat-back exhaust system with 80mm Stainless Steel Piping and Tips.

Available June 15th, 2009

This DIY shows you how to drill your aftermarket Honda bearings to OEM specs. If you have any questions or comments on this DIY, please post them below. This article was written and contributed by M. @ TDC Motorsports LLC.

Here is a little trick we decided to try on our shop engine. First off our thanks to the boys at King Motorsports, the Mugen Gurus on this side of the Pacific, for posting the original idea.

So here we go!

OEM bearings come with chamfered holes designed for lubrication. ACL bearings are not. But that shouldn’t stop you from buying them. There is a simple solution . . . drill ‘em yourself!

Here is an ACL Duraglide Bearing top half. Perfectly smooth, no oiling hole. SAD FACE! Let’s drill the sucker and increase oiling and bearing life! You only need to drill the top bearing halves. There are 4.

We start with an old LS rod, and as long as the bearing areas are clean and round this will work just fine. Step one is to cut the piston pin area off, or press the pin out and remove the piston (if one is on there already).

Here we begin with drilling through the stock oiling hole. Use a bit that is BARELY larger. You will be drilling back through it to drill through the bearing to make your oiling hole.

Make sure when you’re drilling, not to push too hard, and don’t jostle the drill too much. Go slowly and let the bit do the work. USE A NEW BIT, It’ll make things a lot easier.

Here you can see where the bit will exit the rod. This is the stock oiling hole. If you’ll notice, this actually will act as a piston squirter under pressure . . . yes LS engines have em too.

Chase the hole the opposite direction to make sure things are smooth and even.

Done. Notice that it looks like it’s freshly drilled and smooth.

Clean Clean Clean! Keep things clean when you drill metal parts that may see the inside of an engine. Use some brake cleaner and be generous. A soft cloth or shop towel will suffice for drying.

Now what you’ll do is set the bearing inside the “Bearing Driller Tool” you just made. Set it in a vice like so and drill from the outside of the rod to the inside of the rod and through the bearing. The vice keeps the bearing flat and secure while you drill. GO SLOWLY. I get these cheap as hell so I can afford to ruin them over and over . . . sorta. I’d hate to see you all destroy a $70 set of bearings, so be patient.

Done, Drilled, And Awful looking. We don’t want that in our engines now do we? Those areas can catch debris which can destroy a bearing real quick. Remember the clearances on a Honda are SO tight, that a few fibers from a paper towel can prevent the crank from turning smoothly and really screw things up.

Now what you need is a chamfering tool. These are available at any hardware store, or automotive store. If you’re familiar with woodworking, it looks almost exactly like a countersink. Now BY HAND gently insert the tip and twist applying gentle pressure. The effect you’re aiming for is a clean smooth transition from the bearing surface to the oil hole.

There you go. Do this front and back.

Repeat this 4 times and you’re all finished. Now you can have proper oiling with your aftermarket tri – metal bearings, increasing their life and possibly increasing your performance potential. A cool lubed motor is a happy motor!