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JE Pistons announces Billet Subaru Pistons

August 31st, 2009 No comments

JE Pistons has announced the release of the first billet pistons available for Subaru EJ257 engines!

Originally created for the Crawford Performance Unlimited AWD Time Attack Subaru and Ken Block’s Gymkhana racecar, these pistons are now available to the public. The new pistons are 100% CNC machined from high quality 2618-T6 wrought aluminum bar stock and are specifically designed for high horsepower road and drag race engines. The pistons feature internal and external bracing, a unique donut dish crown and an application-specific under crown profile that properly redistributes heat and reduces stress concentrations experienced in high boost Subaru engines. Unlike forged pistons, the billet pistons are machined on every surface allowing for all unnecessary weight to be removed during manufacturing. The result of this new process is a weight reduction of up to 35 grams compared to other piston packages available! High quality 9310 steel wrist pins and JE Pro Seal Rings are included. For severe racing applications, upgraded Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coated wrist pins are available.

Discuss in our forums

Skunk2 Press Release – KSeries Composite Fuel Rail

August 6th, 2009 No comments

Skunk2’s cutting-edge Composite Fuel Rail for Honda’s K-series engines—including the ’06+ Civic Si— is here. Skunk2’s Composite Fuel Rails are made using a proprietary carbon-impregnated, aerospace thermo-polymer composite—a material that’s 33-percent lighter, 60-percent stronger, and operates up to 100-degrees F cooler when compared to aluminum and insulates fuel from both radiant and conductive heat transfer underneath the hood, resulting in increased horsepower and torque. Composite Fuel Rails also feature large 0.625-inch internal bores for superior fuel injector pulsation dampening, are machined with a smooth interior finish, and feature radius-cut fuel injector outlets for improved flow characteristics.

The special design that eliminates the sharp internal angles where the main bore meets the fuel injector bores inherent with conventional extruded- and drilled-aluminum designs can only be achieved with such composite materials. Skunk2’s K-series Composite Fuel Rails are compatible with the factory fuel system and can support up to 1,200 hp, with gains as high as three percent realized during testing.

FEATURES

◦Up To 3% Gain
◦Supports Up To 1,200 HP
◦0.625” Internal Bore
◦-8 AN Inlet and Outlet
◦Compatible With Factory Fuel System
◦Chemical-Resistant To All Fuels, Including Alcohol
◦‘06+ Civic-Compatible Kit Available

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TEIN Evo 8/9/10 Hood Dampers

July 23rd, 2009 No comments

TEIN is proud to announce the release of their Hood Damper kits for the EVO IX & EVO X. Please note, all Hood Damper kits are specific to the application for which they are constructed, with differing designs for the EVO IX and X models.

TEIN Hood Dampers for the Mitsubishi Lancer EVO allow you to raise your hood without having to use the traditional hood stand. These are hydraulic style hood lifts.

Application: 03-06 Evo 8 & 9
Part #: BHD01-R52
MSRP: $220

Application: 08+ Evo 10
Part #: BHD01-E18
MSRP: $220

Available August 1st, 2009

Blitz Evo 10 Surge Tank & Exhausts

June 19th, 2009 No comments

Blitz Performance owns two Evo X D1 Drift Cars one in Japan and one in the US. These cars have allowed Blitz to be first to market with a number of Evo 10 parts and their latest release is the most exciting. Blitz has released a Surge Tank for the Evo 10 with a capacity of 2.8L, double the original. This upgraded surge tank is compatible with stock or upgraded fuel components, new camshafts, and 2.3L Kits. Blitz found 23ft/lbs of torque and 8hp at the wheels when using their surge tank. Wheel horsepower went from 361whp to 369whp and torque went from 339ft/lbs to 362 ft/lbs.

Applications: Mitsubishi Evo-X 2008-up
P/N: 10220
MSRP: $2,200.00
Description:Surge Tank

blitz-1

Applications: Mitsubishi Evo-X 2008-up
Exhaust Tone Level: 90dB
P/N: 64072 Nur Spec-C-Ti
MSRP: $1,451.00
Arrival Date: End of June 2009
Description:Full cat-back exhaust system with 80mm Stainless Steel Piping and Titanium Tips.

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Applications: Mitsubishi Evo-X 2008-up
Exhaust Tone Level: 90dB
P/N: 67639 Nur Spec-DT
MSRP: $1,910.00
Arrival Date: End of June 2009
Description:Full Dual Tube cat-back exhaust system with 80mm Stainless Steel Piping and Tips.

Available June 15th, 2009

How to Drill Aftermarket Bearings to OEM Specifications

June 9th, 2009 No comments

How to Drill Aftermarket Bearings to OEM Specifications

This DIY shows you how to drill your aftermarket Honda bearings to OEM specs. If you have any questions or comments on this DIY, please post them below. This article was written and contributed by M. @ TDC Motorsports LLC.

Here is a little trick we decided to try on our shop engine. First off our thanks to the boys at King Motorsports, the Mugen Gurus on this side of the Pacific, for posting the original idea.

So here we go!

OEM bearings come with chamfered holes designed for lubrication. ACL bearings are not. But that shouldn’t stop you from buying them. There is a simple solution . . . drill ‘em yourself!

Here is an ACL Duraglide Bearing top half. Perfectly smooth, no oiling hole. SAD FACE! Let’s drill the sucker and increase oiling and bearing life! You only need to drill the top bearing halves. There are 4.

We start with an old LS rod, and as long as the bearing areas are clean and round this will work just fine. Step one is to cut the piston pin area off, or press the pin out and remove the piston (if one is on there already).

Here we begin with drilling through the stock oiling hole. Use a bit that is BARELY larger. You will be drilling back through it to drill through the bearing to make your oiling hole.

Make sure when you’re drilling, not to push too hard, and don’t jostle the drill too much. Go slowly and let the bit do the work. USE A NEW BIT, It’ll make things a lot easier.

Here you can see where the bit will exit the rod. This is the stock oiling hole. If you’ll notice, this actually will act as a piston squirter under pressure . . . yes LS engines have em too.

Chase the hole the opposite direction to make sure things are smooth and even.

Done. Notice that it looks like it’s freshly drilled and smooth.

Clean Clean Clean! Keep things clean when you drill metal parts that may see the inside of an engine. Use some brake cleaner and be generous. A soft cloth or shop towel will suffice for drying.

Now what you’ll do is set the bearing inside the “Bearing Driller Tool” you just made. Set it in a vice like so and drill from the outside of the rod to the inside of the rod and through the bearing. The vice keeps the bearing flat and secure while you drill. GO SLOWLY. I get these cheap as hell so I can afford to ruin them over and over . . . sorta. I’d hate to see you all destroy a $70 set of bearings, so be patient.

Done, Drilled, And Awful looking. We don’t want that in our engines now do we? Those areas can catch debris which can destroy a bearing real quick. Remember the clearances on a Honda are SO tight, that a few fibers from a paper towel can prevent the crank from turning smoothly and really screw things up.

Now what you need is a chamfering tool. These are available at any hardware store, or automotive store. If you’re familiar with woodworking, it looks almost exactly like a countersink. Now BY HAND gently insert the tip and twist applying gentle pressure. The effect you’re aiming for is a clean smooth transition from the bearing surface to the oil hole.

There you go. Do this front and back.

Repeat this 4 times and you’re all finished. Now you can have proper oiling with your aftermarket tri – metal bearings, increasing their life and possibly increasing your performance potential. A cool lubed motor is a happy motor!

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